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Tutorials

LINING A DOLL DRESS BODICE

I am not a professional seamstress. This is just how I've learned to do things.
You could also use regular fabric for this method but I would cut it on the bias for the facings method and use something thin. I think you could use fine tulle for both methods, as well.

Fully lined method:
Here, I have cut some iron on tricot [tree-koh] in a rectangle just a bit larger than my bodice piece. You can also cut the tricot along with your pattern piece but I prefer this method. I believe the tricot comes in non-iron on form as well.

This plaid fabric has no right or wrong side so make sure that if your fabric does have right and wrong sides, you place the wrong side UP. Also make sure, if you're using the iron on tricot, to have the 'rough' side DOWN as in the smooth side facing the right side of your fabric piece. (Gah, I've confused myself already, lol)
If you get the iron on stuff wrong, you will have a bodice stuck to your iron, a grumpy face and you will probably be spouting some very fancy words.


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Set your machine to a pretty fine, straight stitch (yeah, I know, you didn't need a pic for that but I took it and you have to look at it (hehehe). Seriously, though, this helps sewing around those tiny curves tremendously:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr


Start sewin'.
Sew around the neck and down the back closure (if your pattern is open in back like mine) and then sew the arm holes.
Don't sew the side seams or bottoms! ***NOTE - I use a tiny seam allowance as this is a pattern I drafted myself and I am a skinflint with fabric. I don't cut huge and sew with big seams. If you are using a commercial or freebie pattern, it probably allows for larger seams.***


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Seaming done, and clipped and ready to turn. I use pinking shears for trimming, but it is perfectly okay to clip with scissors. Either way, don't clip your stitches!:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Back side:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Now turn. These little surgical thingies are a blessing. Pull the back through the shoulder. It's not as difficult as it sounds.:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr


Pressed and ready to top-stitch if you like. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't, depends on fabrics and such.


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Stitch around but, again, don't stitch the sides or bottom. I use a little bit larger stitch for this because my machine is a POS and doesn't make pretty stitches at tiny sizes. ( I did take a pic of that setting, too, but I won't torture you tongue ):


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

See, stupid, crappy machine...it just recently started making these wonky stitches...can't figure out why...tried tension, needles, thread...who knows...but here it is...a finished, lined bodice:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Next up, facings instead of lining.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

FACINGS INSTEAD OF A FULL LINING


Bodice using "facings".

"U" shaped facing. I cut this freehand, your pattern may include a pattern for the facings.
Again, make sure you get right sides together, with the right side of the iron on tricot being the smooth side, not the rough side.


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Sew around, same as the other method:

Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Clip or use pinking shears:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Clipped seam and tricot facing folded to the inside of the garment:

Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Pressed and top stitched. You don't have to do this before you do the armholes...I had a brain hiccup and forgot to do them before turning and pressing....doh.:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

Here we go, armholes...freehand cut the tricot facing just like the neckline, trimmed:

Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

All facings turned to the inside and pressed:


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr

To be honest, this fabric really should have been lined because I cut the bodice on the bias and it is fairly thin, this works best with heavier or stiffer fabrics :


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr


Two Ways to Sew a Bodice by Atomic Blythe, on Flickr


There you go. Linings vs. Facings. There are uses for both Smile Hope I helped!

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